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| 2005 Bamburg |
Travellers
Paul V, Ray, Frank, Mick, Trev, Dave, Tel, John, Ron and Paul C.
Objective
To visit some of the outlying towns and villages.
Keywords
tbd
Comments
In our previous visit to Bamberg we had concentrated on the delights of the city itself, namely the (then) nine city breweries. No doubt we would again enjoy some of their beers, particularly as we were staying in a brewery, but our main aim this time would be to visit some of the outlying towns and villages and sample their brews.
The group set off in various ways- seven flew from Heathrow to Nurnberg, two travelled by train from Waterloo and one was joining from holiday in Italy.
Thursday
The flights got the main group to Nurnberg airport by mid-afternoon and a trip with U2 brought us to the main train station, just a short walk to the city centre and the Hotel Deutscher Kaiser (Konigstrasse 55). The hotel bar, complete with vaulted ceilings and wall murals, serves Andechs beer from the monastery by the shore of the Ammersee, south east of Munich. Having enjoyed the Special Hell at the GBBF, we were keen to try the five different draught styles on offer (see separate beer list). We particularly liked the Dunkles Weissbier with its mild malty taste. Joined by the train travellers, a fifty-minute journey, along a line we would get to know well, took us to Bamberg.
It would not be one of our trips without some difficulty with our hotel booking and this was no exception. With one person still to arrive and one room short, we left a rearguard at the Braueriegaststätte Fässla (Ob. Königstrasse 19) waiting for John and the manager. After a quick Gold Pils, the rest of us headed into town.
Our first port of call was the Braunbier Stübla for some Klosterbräu (Ob. Mühlbrücke 1-3) where the Schwarzla went down a treat. With its scrubbed wooden tables and wood panelled walls this brewery tap is typical of the region. No time to get comfortable, we had a new brewery to try.
Ambräusianum (Dominikanerstrasse 10) had opened since our last visit. The brewing coppers dominate this new venture, established in an old building a few doors down from Schlenkerla. Two draught beers were available, a Hell and a Weizen, both unfiltered, 5.1% and very respectable. Still this being Bamberg a brewery would be unlikely to survive if the beer were not good.
With the benefit of mobile technology, the rest of the group joined us in this busy and vibrant bar, just in time to head off and separate the men from the boys, or more accurately, those who like smokey bacon from those who don’t.
It just so happened that Heller Bräu Trum (Schlenkerla) (Dominikanerstrasse 6) was unveiling this year’s bock beer. A large crowd was in the brewery courtyard trying the Urbock, which had the very distinctive Rauchbier taste but at a knee wobbling 8%. Like this brewery’s Marzen, you either like it or hate it, and Dave loathed it with a vengeance. Although appreciated by some, at that strength one was enough.
Outside, having at last got the whole group together, we split up again. Four went back to Ambräusianum and onwards to some late night drinking den with a couple of Germans of indeterminate gender. The rest went round the corner to Gaststätte Hofbräu (Karolinenstrasse 7). If you like your waitresses strict then this is the place. It is also good for draught Tucher Dunkles, Tucher Hefe Weisbier and Zirndorfer Urnell.
Having made a reasonable start to the weekend’s beer sampling, we headed back to the hotel. The splinter group made it back sometime latter, but not as late as one wanderer. Employing the traditional method of fixing on one particular feature amongst many as the marker for the way back- previous selections have been a large crane and a steepled church- the happy wanderer this time chose tram lines leading out of town.
Friday
A few went into town early to buy the Bamberg Brewery Trail pack (includes map, booklet, glass, backpack and vouchers for 5 glasses of beer, all for 20 Euro), before we all met up at the station for the 11.07 to Forchheim. Mick enlivened the journey with his tale of nocturnal wanderings, having managed to lock himself out of his room (in his underpants) and failing to raise Frank from his slumber. A kind laundry maid let him back in the room in time to get ready for breakfast.
Forchheim is a very pretty town at the confluence of the rivers Regnitz and Wiesent, some 25 kilometres south of Bamberg. Although quite small, about the size of Alton, Forchheim still has four active breweries.
Before getting to them, we started in the main shopping street at the Fränkische Bierstube (Hauptstrasse 52). Previously the site of a brewery, this beer café still maintained wood panelled interior, but it was such a pleasant day that we sat outside enjoying the sun and watching the world go by. The draught beer on offer was the excellent Wolfshöhe Pils from the brewery of the same name at Neunkirchen am Sand, just north of Nurnberg.
After admiring the architecture of the Rathaus we aimed for some Grief (Sattlertorstrasse 18), which the tour leader duly suffered as the gaststätte was closed for refurbishment.
Still not to worry, a few doors away was Brauerie Hebendanz (Sattlertorstrasse 14). A large table in the corridor was made for our party and we very much enjoyed the Helles Export (5%) and the entertainment provided by a couple of cheery locals. The bartender was very helpful, providing local maps and directions to the other local breweries. More helpful than Ray, who managed to get the tour leader interviewed by a pair touring Frankische Schweiz and recording the sounds of the beer kellers.
After this real foot-tapping interlude, we moved another couple of doors down the road to Brauerie Neder (Sattlertorstrasse 10). Another brewery regularly represented at the GBBF, the draught Export (5.3%) was served by a typical German barmaid, who carried eight steins at a time and managed the busy bar effortlessly. It was here that our budding Cecil Ron De Mille, momentarily relinquishing his camcorder for a call of nature, returned to find Michael’s underpants, amongst others, again had a starring role.
Brauerie Eichhorn (Bamberger Strasse 9) was rather quieter and we took the opportunity to eat here whilst enjoying the three draughts on offer- Vollbier (4.9%), Edel-Pils (5.4%) and Braunes Achhornla (4.9%). One of the drinkers was the brewer, or at least had the keys to the brewery, and was quite happy to give the three of us who were interested a quick tour. For such a small brewery, it had an impressive array of lagering vessels. The free bottles given at the end were gratefully accepted.
Back to Bamberg and the evening shift. Opposite our hotel brewery is Spezial (Ob. Königstrasse 10), brewer of the other Bamberg Rauchbier. Although perhaps not as well known as Schlenkerla, it is much preferred by us and we particularly enjoyed the Ungespundenes (3.5%).
Brauerie Maisel (Moosstrasse 46) is a bit out of the centre of town but fortunately just down the road from Spezial is one of the brewery’s outlets- the Bamberger Weissbierhaus (Ob. Königstrasse 38). This quiet (when we were there) gaststätte served three of Maisel’s draught beers and we tried the Benediktiner Dunkel (4.4%), which Frank particularly liked.
A short walk south-east along the Main Donau canal brings you to two breweries close together. The Brauereigaststätte Keesmann (Wunderburg 5) is a light and airy bar but still equipped with the large scrubbed tables and wood panelled walls. We crashed a table and proceeded to instruct the unfortunate Germans sitting there in the art of talking bollocks. They took to the skill rather well and were soon enjoying the conversation as much as we were. Two of the three draughts were tried, the light Herren Pils (4.6%) and the dark Sternla Lager (4.8%). Both were extremely enjoyable. After emptying most of the bar, we left as well and crossed the road to Mahrs-Bräu (Wunderburg 10).
In some ways the opposite of Keesmann, Mahrs is dark and smokey, the bar area dominated by a large kachelofen (tiled stove). A proper serving wench and rather enjoyable Ungespundenes and Helles on draught got us through to closing at 23.00.
A detour to the other side of the railway lines will take you to the late night Café Abseits (Podeldorfer Strasse 39) and some Andechs schnapps washed down by some Monchsambacher unfiltered pils. After that we were ready for bed.
Saturday
Eleven o’clock on a bright and sunny day found us at the train station again, but this time for the bus to Drosendorf, some 7.5 kilometres north east of Bamberg, and our first stop of the day, Brauerei Göller (Schesslitzer Strasse 7). Housed in an uninspiring modern building, this family run brewery provided friendly and helpful service and a very refreshing Urstoff lager.
Suitably revitalised we set off on the two kilometre walk to Merkendorf and the first of two breweries located in this small village. Brauerei Hummel (Lindenstrasse 9) has a large gaststätte on the roadside with the brewery buildings to the side and rear. We sat in the sunshine in the rear beer yard and enjoyed a few of the four draught beers available that day. The brewery’s logo is three crowns, which reminded us we had a lot to cover that day and we moved on.
It must have been all of 500 metres to the other Merkendorf brewery, Brauerie Wagner (Pointstrasse 1). Another brewery with the gaststätte on the roadside and brewery to the side, we again enjoyed the sunshine in the back yard. You quickly saw why the couple enjoying an early lunchtime drink had wooden covers for their mugs- the acorns had a nasty habit of dropping in your beer! Which would have been a shame, as along with three draught beer taps, there was a barrel of Ungespundenes Lagerbier on a stool at the back of the bar.
There was just time for an amateurish game of table football before we set off on the very enjoyable six kilometre walk to Memmelsdorf. First up was Brauerie Höhn (Haupstrasse 11). Set in an antiseptic 1960’s building, this at least brought the smartest toilets anyone could hope for. The food was also very good as was the naturaltrüb Unser Gorchla-Bier, one of the best we tried.
Although no longer brewing themselves (the beer is now brewed by Weismainer to the old recipe) we called in at Brauerie Gaststätte Leicht (Haupstrasse 27), where we at last found out what the chalk marks on the back of the gasthofs’ doors meant. Every year the buildings are ‘blessed’ and the visiting clergy leave their mark. It had a very subdued atmosphere and after a Bräu pils we moved on.
Last call before the bus back to Bamberg was Brauerie Drie Kronen (Haupstrasse 19). Fortunately, this bar provides small samplers of their three draught beers, as they were not well liked.
Back in Bamberg we gathered at the Fässla for a quick Lagerbier before heading into the centre. We tried Schlenkerla, but as it was packed only two stayed to try the Marzen and the surly service whilst the rest moved onto Ambräusianum.
Meeting up again a few remained in the centre whilst the rest of us tackled the heights of Stephansberg in search of Spezial Keller (Oberer Stephansberg 47). Just our luck, it was closed for the whole of October for annual holidays. The tour leader had failed again and mutiny was afoot! In his defence, none of the guidebooks had mentioned this month long closure.
The situation was saved by Stöhrenkeller (Oberer Stephansberg 11), just back down the hill a little. This is a very intimate little pub serving Keesmann Pils and Zur Sonne Hell (from Bischberg). Even though the barrel behind the bar is fake (you can see the lines coming in from underneath), the beer and atmosphere were excellent and we stayed for a few. We headed back down to Hofbräu for some more discipline and instruction in the correct pronunciation of Wald(stop)himbeergeist as we attempted to drink all the schnapps on the menu. Ignoring the expert protocol on schnapps drinking offered by the locals, we tried quite a few but failed delightfully in the attempt at the full list.
Sunday
Back at the station again but this time with a choice of transport - either let the train take the strain, or cycle the 16 kilometres to Buttenheim. Three elected for the exercise, after all the going should be pretty flat as the route followed the Main-Donau-Kanal nearly all the way. Unfortunately, there were a couple of big (and we mean big) locks which required negotiating some steps.
The cyclists were only one drink behind when they arrived at Sankt Georgen Bräu (Marktstrasse 12). This is an excellent Brauereigaststätte and both the food and the beer (particularly the Vollbier) were well liked. We stayed so long that the Löwenbräu Brauerei-Gasthof (Marktstrasse 8) was just closing.
The owner suggested we try the Löwenbräu-Keller in the woods on the edge of town. Although in summer the location would be appealing, on a cloudy day in October it was a bit dismal and our mood was not lifted by the Kellerbier which was voted the worst on this trip.
Whilst the cyclists headed back to Bamberg the train spotters called in at Gaststätte Backstahäusla (Am Bahnhof 1, Altendorf) for a quick one. Unfortunately the draught beer was Löwenbräu and in no better nick than at the Keller- time for a bottled Weissbier while playing dice with the locals.
Our final evening in Bamberg started at Spezial. Tel tried for a U-er only to be met with huge merriment from the waitress. Whatever U-er is, it isn’t a beer. The rest of us stuck with the U(ndespundetes) or Lagerbier. The waitress was still laughing as we left for the centre.
Dominated by the large tiled oven which provides its name Zum Kachelofen (Obere Sandstrasse 1) serves, in addition to the Rauchbier Marzen from the nearby Schlenkerla, Sankt Georgen Bräu Kellerbier, which was just as nice as at the Gasthof in Buttenheim earlier in the day. Dave was, however, off the beer and embarked upon a search for a schnapps flavour he felt sure he had enjoyed in this bar five years earlier. He never did find the ‘peach’ schnapps (the staff insisted they never had had such a flavour) but he had fun trying.
Next stop was Der Pelikan (Untere Sandstrasse 45), a lively bar offering a good choice of beers and Thai food. The draught Huppendorfer Vollbier from Brauerei Grasser was very nice, as was the bottled Winkler Lager and the various schnapps tried by Dave. There were some excellent tiles in the gent’s toilets, if only we could remember what they were.
Final stop was, as usual, Hofbräu. Unfortunately, or is that fortunately, it was Miss Whiplash’s night off so we had quiet time finishing off the schnapps list before retiring to bed.
Monday
We set off on our various ways home at differing times. Those flying from Nurnberg had time to visit one last brewery in the city centre. Only one brave soul ventured into town, which was a pity as Brauhaus Barfüser (Hallplatz 2) is a new brewery and bar located in the cellars of the old Mautkeller. Smart and bright, the beer brewed on site provided a nice finale to a small beer break.
We all made it back safely before midnight and duly collected our winnings from Kev who, for some incomprehensible reason, thought some might not get back at the scheduled times.
Created on 01/22/2006 04:42 PM by drinking
Updated on 01/22/2006 04:50 PM by drinking
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